The House That Jack Built
HealthyLivingNYC sat down with Jack Mazzola, owner of Jack's Stir Brew, to talk about his coffee and the equally important philosophy behind it.

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Lesley Michael

Jack’s Stir Brew has become a mainstay in Greenwich Village. Recently awarded Best Coffee in 2005 by NY magazine, HealthyLivingNYC sat down with Jack Mazzola, brewmaster and owner, to talk about his organic fair trade coffee and the equally important philosophy behind it.

HLNYC: What’s the story behind Jack’s Stir Brew?

I’ve been acting in NY since I was 17 and have had many service business jobs. When I made this jump I was working at a coffee shop and I realized I was sick of working for everyone else. A friend gave me a book by Julia Alvarez called, The Cafecito Story, which became my inspiration. The story is about a farmer from Nebraska who visits the Dominican Republic and in the process of learning how to harvest and make coffee, he teaches families how to speak English. The back of the book said, “written by Julia Alvarez, who owns a coffee farm in the Dominican Republic.” I contacted Julia, her and her husband came to my apartment with their coffee, we brewed it up and I loved it. They invited me to their coffee farm, I worked on the farm and developed a relationship with the land, the workers, and their family. From that point, on I realized the importance of building a similar relationship with everyone in the food chain.

HLNYC: Why use organic coffee?

I decided I wanted to do organic coffee because there were a few things in my mind that should unquestionably hold true to the organic philosophy...like the eggs and milk in my fridge, and the other staple stuff that I always keep in my apartment. But no one was doing organic coffee. Today we go the extra mile, serving certified organic and certified fair trade coffee, organic milk behind the bar, and brown sugar... I ’m serving what I would call the perfect cup of coffee.

I believe in the organic movement because being raised in a traditional Italian family I was accustomed to seasonal harvests from our vegetable garden in the backyard. For me that is the true meaning of organic, the wholesome act of nurturing food on its journey from seed to table.

HLNYC: Many people disregard fair trade coffee simply because it costs more. You are committed to brewing certified fair trade coffee. Why?

Though you are paying a premium for the coffee (farmers in the fair trade program are guaranteed $1.41 per pound for green organic coffee no matter how low the commodity price), buying fair trade promises poor coffee cooperatives a reasonable price so that farmers can make living wages, while developing long-term relationships with international buyers. Buying fair trade also helps invest money in education, the environment, and healthcare, in addition to promoting better working conditions. After learning about fair trade coffee its difficult to support the alternative.

We also support Grounds for Health, an organization that performs cancer-screenings and provides healthcare education for women on the coffee farms. I think its important to educate consumers and get them to recognize these world-wide issues, especially since it directly affects the people who help cultivate their coffee. Jack’s has a global awareness, along with a local awareness, which is why this place is so special. It has built a community.

HLNYC: In addition to award-winning coffee your loyal customers are also quick to boast about the amiable atmosphere at Jack’s. This indeed builds upon the connection between what we consume and our surroundings. Can you comment on how you helped foster the ambiance?

We’re open almost two years now, but before I opened I would walk down the street and notice that no one really said hello to each other. This place kind of opened everyone up, and now neighbors finally know each other. When this place is crowded you’ll rarely see a computer open or people listening to headphones, because its a social club. I encourage that everyone talk to each other, that everyone get to know each other, and so relationships have built out of here.

Our customers range from a 70 year old who stops in every morning for his espresso to 7 year olds who love the over-sized Oreos (homemade by Ivy’s Uppercrust Pastry) for a sugar rush.

HLNYC: The coffee you serve at Jack’s seamlessly introduces other organic food offerings from local and sociallyconscious food companies. Can you tell us a bit more about the products you’ve selected?

Savoring this link between the coffee farm and the brewing coffee beans, added a whole new dimension to the business of making good coffee. I also realized that New Yorkers rarely take the time do this.

From the people that make my coffee, to a friend of mine in Vermont who roasts Jack’s coffee in his barn, I apply this same philosophy to everything I sell. The cherry-almond and apple-walnut scones (organic, kosher, and vegan) are baked locally by a friend. We serve organic granola made from friends at Dr. Cow, organic green tea soda by Steaz (owned by my friend Eric), yogurts from local Ronnybrook farms, and we offer specialty ciders from NY’s Red Jacket Orchards. The popular muffi ns are baked by friends at Brooklyn’s Blue Sky Bakery.

Editor’s Note: The muffi ns, in either traditional, bran, carrot or pumpkin bases, are fi lled in the center with seasonal fruits, come in dozens of varieties like blueberry-apricot, cherry-sweet plum, blackberry- peach, mango strawberry and zucchini banana- plum.

HLNYC: What lead to the creation of the stir brew technique?

I really wasn’t happy with traditional brewing systems, so I developed a system that really makes the magic happen. The coffee blend is complex and stirring it during the brewing process oxygenates it, removes the bitterness, and ensures that the whole blend is utilized. It’s just like mom’s sauce. My mom would always stir her sauce. She would put the ingredients into the pot in the morning and then she would stir it through out the day. They’ve been stirring coffee since the 1800’s but no one had built a commercial brewer that does so.

HLNYC: Any special events at Jack’s?

Tuesday night live music, which my buddy and I started two years ago. When we started, it was just him and I and two other people. Now on a Tuesday night you can barely get in here. Underground and local musicians perform, but it’s not an open mic as it’s a bit more organized. Everyday people drop off CD’s and we go through this process of listening and choosing who is next to grace the small stage.

We also started working with some local writers and set up readings of recently published works. Recently my pal JP, the author of the Cork Boat (corkboat.com), did a reading for his paperback when it came out, and he’s also responsible for the politically-inspired American fl ag collage (composed of warning labels and advisories) on the wall.

HLNYC: After growing accustomed to Jack’s Coffee, a customer explains that her palate can now unmistakably recognize bad coffee served by larger coffee chains. “The bitter, acidic and burnt coffee taste is obvious once Jack’s becomes your reference point.” How do you explain your coffee’s taste?

It’s a dark roast, strong, and very smooth. You’ll detect an explosion of many fl avors, as it’s really an ensemble of notes that complement each other beautifully.I treat my coffee beans as if they were delicate produce from the market. Age, light, and moisture are all factors that contribute to the coffee’s taste, and can specifi cally bring about its bitter character. Larger companies don’t treat the beans with proper care, and this is frequently refl ected in the quality and taste of the coffee they serve.

HLNYC: What’s the most popular drink order?

Our staple drink is nothing fancy. Either a small or big coffee with steamed milk on top. Adding cold milk to hot coffee kills it. Steaming milk takes the chill out and marries the fl avors much better. I don’t think larger coffee chains even put milk in for you. This was just another way to build a relationship with customers. When you come in, we know how you like your coffee. But, if you’re looking to try something a bit different, we have a chalkboard fi lled with customer favorites. The coffee itself is the key ingredient. A lot of people ask me what’s in the coffee and I don’t really like to disclose the blend. That’s my secret.

Jack’s Stir Brew is located at 138 West 10th St. between Greenwich Ave and Waverly Pl in Greenwich Village. Coffee starts at $1.65 for a small; muffi ns and scones are $2.75. Coffee by the pound is available in store or through their website, jacksstirbrew.com.